Day 1


Great first day! We started out early from East Glacier with Hailey and her parents. We drove to Many Glaciers to get our permits and had it sorted out really quickly. The rangers were super accomodating and pretty much just let us do what we wanted. We got a good permit taking us over Stoney Indian pass tomorrow and onto the Highline trail. The rangers think it will be dangerous but Chance and I are optimistic. We had breakfast then drove up to Chief Mountain Customs and took all the obligatory photos. Hailey and I had a nice little goodbye and then we were off around 11:30.
Very easy pleasant day. Sunny but quite windy. We met a ton of hikers of all stripes coming through the Belly River area. Anyone we told we were hiking to Mexico assumed we were joking. We met a couple rangers that were complete opposites of each other. The first basically thought our plan was going to kill us, but she had heard of a couple that had done some parts of our plan (although she said they told her they wouldn’t do it again). The second looked over our permit and just said she thought we’d have an awesome time. I liked her better.

Had some nice (loud, bear scaring) chats with Chance all the way along. He talks a lot which is good to go with my long silences 🙂

We finished hiking by 4pm and putzed around camp a bit, but in tents by 6pm. It’s very windy and cold as the sun goes behind the mountains around us.


Daily Summary

Date: June 25, 2011

Daily Distance: 10.3 miles

Trip Distance: 10.3 miles

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Glacier National Park camping permit

Hi all, Hailey again. I won’t be updating the map for the next couple of days as I am out of town. This will happen often on weekends over the summer so don’t worry, he is all good. Before you all leave for the long weekend, here’s a picture of Ryley and Chance’s camping permit for Glacier National Park. They found it humorous.

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Many Glacier update

Hello again, still Hailey here. Ryley made it to Many Glacier today, a little place in Glacier National Park that has a ranger station, hotel, gift shop/general store, restaurant and a payphone! He still has no internet access but once he does he will be sending his daily journals along and I will post all of them (ETA, July 2 when he reaches East Glacier). The first 4 days have been stunningly beautiful, yet extremely difficult. Besides getting back into trail shape, they have encountered lots of “trail” that is hard snow at a 30 or 40 degree angle which may or may not be beside a cliff. Some of the paths were so steep that they bushwhacked through forest for most of the day to avoid the walking too close to the drop-offs. They also came across a mother grizzly bear with cubs. The mother charged them, but lost interest before she got too close. Chance & Ry had time to get out their bear spray but didn’t need it. Besides day 1, it has been sunny, warm and the views are incredible. Ryley is in good spirits and the park ranger said they have gotten through some of the hairiest trail conditions in GNP.

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Trailhead – Chief Mountain Customs

Hi everyone, Hailey here. I am going to be posting all of Ryley’s blog entries and keeping the online map up to date with his daily SPOT coordinates. My parents and I drove Ryley down to Kalispell, MT yesterday to pick up another hiker named “Chance”. We stayed the night in Glacier National Park at a little place called East Glacier. Early this morning, we drove to Many Glacier so Chance could drop off some food and they could pick up their camp permits for Glacier National Park. After a delicious breakfast at Many Glacier, the last warm, greasy meal they would have for awhile, we drove to the Chief Mountain customs and dropped them off. It was a very exciting and windy morning, and now they are officially off! Ryley’s hiking buddy Chance is also writing a blog that you can read here.


Remember, you can check the map daily to see where he is. The purple line represents the CDT alternates routes and the orangey/brown line is the official route.


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SPOT Map and gear list


6 days until I leave for the trail, so a last few things to point out before I go.  If you want to see where I am on the trail, the place to look will be on the SPOT Map.  This will be updated daily with my position, a short message, and occasionally pictures and links to the blog.

Having added it all up, it seems like my pack will weigh about 33lbs on day one of the hike, including 3 days of food, 1L of water and some stove fuel.  Once I get out of the worst of the snow, that will go down by about 7lbs on average.  The gear locker has been filled in (mostly), so if you want to get a visual sense of what I’ll be carrying, it’s almost all there.  If you’re more of a “numbers” person, I have a whole spreadsheet of gear here, but the meat of it is this:

 

 

For the first couple weeks, I will likely be carrying a few added/changed items:

  • Change: Windshirt (115g) out, Montbell Peak Shell (311g) in
  • Change: Regular baskets for trekking poles out, snow baskets in
  • Add: BD Raven Pro Ice Axe (430g)
  • Add: Kahtoola 10pt Crampons (589g)
  • Add: MEC Power dry Long Johns (~100g)
  • Add: MSR Lightning Ascent Snowshoes (1760g)

So I will be at almost exactly 23lbs for base weight (no food, water, or stove fuel).  I will hopefully be sending the snowshoes home quickly, and hang onto the rest for awhile longer just in case.

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Technology on the trail

In the past I would have considered myself quite a snob when it comes to tech toys in the wilderness.  I prefer to hike with as little as possible.  On the PCT I carried a small camera and a headlamp (and extra batteries for both).  For the CDT, I’m adding a Kindle, iPhone, and SPOT Connect (along with batteries and charging cables).

The Kindle was actually the easiest one to justify to myself.  It has incredible battery life, claimed to be 30 days of reading, which I will be testing vigorously (I read a lot).  On the PCT I usually carried a paperback book, and occasionally two.  The Kindle weighs less than an average paperback. I’m no more concerned about getting it wet than I was for a book (for either, a ziplock will keep it dry enough).

The iPhone will be doing a lot of things in moderation for me.  It has relatively poor battery life and I am stubbornly refusing to carry any kind of solar charger (heavy).  I get ~16 hours of use every day out of it, so I figure with no WiFi, 3G, or phone portion turned on, it will last a week or two if I generally keep it off.  The main job of my phone will be to use its GPS – I have an app called GaiaGPS which contains the same maps as I have on paper, but can provide me my exact location along with larger area maps.  This is useful if I ever need to find a way out of the wilderness if I get in trouble.  Additionally, I’ll be using it to write daily journals which will be sent when I get access to WiFi or a data connection in towns.  Finally, it will allow me to get the lightest kind of SPOT, which uses Bluetooth to talk to an iPhone app.  I’m also looking forward to not having to beg for computer access when I’m in town.  An iPhone can do most of what I want – email, ordering gear, phoning home, etc.

SPOT Connect is a relatively new thing, a little cube of warm, fuzzy safety.  By itself, all it can do is send out an SOS signal via satellites which calls in the cavalry (aka a helicopter or SAR team).  When paired with an iPhone, it can send mini-status updates via the same satellites whenever I like.  My plan is to send daily updates from my camp each night.  Once I get hiking there will be a map you can view showing my expected path and where I am along it.

Overall I’m somewhat ambivalent about all this stuff.  I work with computers all day, and one of the joys of hiking for me is how it simplifies my life.  As I’ve gone through the planning process for the CDT though, I’ve discovered that the complexity of this trail relative to the PCT requires some compromises.  I was surprised by the demands of my family and girlfriend to stay safe in contrast to the PCT where this was never mentioned.  I suspect no one realized how remote and wild the PCT was until I started calling home and sending pictures.

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Sleeping gear

Getting close to departure time, 10 days and counting.  Right now it’s looking like I’ll be spending some nights sleeping on snow, so it’s time to consider what I’ll wear to bed and how I’ll be keeping the cold out.  The biggest part, which I’ve already covered, is my sleeping bag.  After that, it’s crucial to have a sleeping pad that will stop the ground from leeching my heat away… Especially if that ground is snow!

For most people, sleeping pads are easy.  You can buy a piece of blue foam from Canadian Tire or any number of more technical foam pads depending on how cold you’re expecting things to be.  Unfortunately for me, I can only sleep on my side.  Side-sleeping on foam is not very comfortable for me, usually resulting in me waking up every 30 minutes to roll over because my arm is numb.  If only I could sleep on my back, I would be way more comfortable.

For the PCT, I used a Thermarest Prolite 3 Short, a kind of self-inflating air mattress.  I choose the short versions because I don’t mind having my feet on the ground and it saves a bunch of weight.  When it’s cold I generally am curled up in a ball anyways, so there’s no issue there either.

In the last couple years, there have been some great advances in air mattress technology, and on the CDT I will be taking advantage of it.  A Thermarest NeoAir is twice as thick as my old Prolite 3, weighs less, packs up more tightly, and is generally just way more comfortable.  Prolite 3s have foam inside, that I assumed provided the insulation.  NeoAirs are really just robust air mattresses, so I was somewhat skeptical about their insulative powers.  Having now slept on mine in enough cold conditions, my fears have been eased – the NeoAir seems to be at least as warm as my Prolite 3.

Other than that, if I’m expecting cold weather, I usually add some long johns, a merino wool shirt, and a toque to my gear.  I will probably start the CDT with all of these.  They aren’t the thickest versions (mid-weight long johns, very thin merino shirt, and a knit toque), but it seems to be enough to get me by.

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Trail Update

I’ve been a bit reclusive lately, so when I ran into a bunch of friends this weekend, I had a lot of questions like “I thought we were rid of you already?”  I love my friends.  Here’s the latest update: I have booked a one-way plane ticket to Calgary, AB on June 23rd.  Currently, I’m expecting to be on the trail June 24th or 25th… The way it goes is that when I arrive in Waterton, AB (via car, thanks to Lee E.), I have to check in with the rangers for Glacier National Park (GNP).  They will help me choose campsites throughout GNP, based on conditions in the park and availability of camp sites.  The current conditions in GNP are pretty nuts.  The snow levels are about double normal right now, but I’m hoping that the next few weeks stay warm and take care of it for me.  I’ve been adding gear to my plan based on this, so now am officially not a lightweight hiker any more.  With snowshoes, ice axe and light crampons, my base weight will be ~22lbs.

Once permits are sorted out in Waterton, I will jump over the border to mail my bounce box to myself further down the trail.  In Waterton I’ll be looking to pick up some bear spray and possibly fuel for my stove (still not sure if I can take fuel on the plane or not).

My TODO list is getting very short.  I broke one of my new hiking poles coming down Mt. Baker, and the replacement just arrived, which marks the last piece of gear I needed before I leave.  I have to mail some money to a ranch in Montana, to pay for them to hold a package of food for me later.  They happen to be near the trail, and the alternatives for getting food aren’t very good – a day or two detour to a town.

Finally, I’m giving a slideshow from my Pacific Crest Trail trip and talking about the Continental Divide, June 8th at 7:30pm, in the Woodward Room at Begbie Hall (Jubilee Hospital).  If you are a hockey fan and watching the game, please don’t worry, just come late.  I will understand!

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rain and my gear

I’m much more concerned about my sleeping bag getting wet than I am about being soaked myself. Snuggling up in a warm sleeping bag while it’s pouring rain outside the tent is very satisfying, and I want to make that happen 100% of the time. There are a few options for keeping gear in my pack dry, and I’ve tried them all at one point or another. My decisions have been coloured by the weather we have here in the Pacific Northwest: torrential rain, often. Way back during my first backpacking trip ever, with gear all shiny new from MEC, we hiked to Topaltos Beach, near Bamberton (one of the rainiest place in Canada). I had a fully waterproof pack cover. By the time we got to the beach, maybe two hours of hiking, everything inside was wet.

Since then, I’ve considered buying something like a giant kayak dry bag with shoulder straps, but eventually gave it up because the packs are rather expensive, heavy, and not very versatile. My compromise solution was figure out what subset of my gear actually needs to be dry, and seal those in dry bags, and just let the rest get wet. My current solution is an eVent-based compression bag for my sleeping bag, and a lightweight, waterproof dry bag for my sleeping clothes and down jacket. My food is kept in an odor-proof bag that happens to be waterproof also.

Now that I’ve bought these various little waterproof bags, I’ve discovered pack-liners. Often just a big garbage bag inside the pack, they do a much better job than a cover, and in the end weigh a lot less than having 2-3 smaller bags inside to protect just the important stuff. Inertia will keep me with my current method, but I can see the advantage of going with the liner. One thing I do like about my current setup is the neat little organizational packages my bags give me. This way I don’t have to dig through my whole pack to find a piece of clothing.

The key really is keeping the sleeping stuff dry. In terms of safety, nothing else really matters.

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Sleeping bag

It might seem like a tent is home after a hundred nights, but I am much more attached to my sleeping bag. I have a Western Mountaineering Megalite, which is a down mummy bag rated to 0C. Unlike a lot of sleeping bag manufacturers, Western Mountaineering is not kidding when they rate a bag. Their marketing people don’t knock off 15 degrees and let you freeze because it “looks good on the tag” or some other crap like that. I’m possibly a little bit bitter about some previous sleeping bag purchases…

Moving on! There’s always a debate when it comes to sleeping bags about whether they should be filled with down or synthetic. The main argument for synthetic bags is that they are cheap and stay warm when wet. Down’s advantage is that it is incredibly warm for it’s weight. I’ve found that synthetic bags lose their loft (loft is essentially the puffiness of the bag) very quickly, within 2-3 years they are nearly useless. My understanding is that if you never compress a synthetic bag, it will last a long time, but that’s never really been an option for me.

That leaves me with down bags, which I’ve always been extra careful to keep dry, and not compress more than necessary. My CDT sleeping bag will be the same as I used for the PCT, it still looks like new. One interesting thing I’ve learned from reading articles on backpackinglight.com (sadly, you have to be a member to read it) is that people have actually tested the idea that “down is worse when wet than synthetic” and discovered that it is only marginally true. Both perform poorly when wet, down is worse, but down generally dries out much more quickly.

The negative side of down sleeping bags is their cost. The loftiest down bags made by top-notch companies like Western Mountaineering, Feathered Friends, and Montbell all cost $300+ for a 0C bag. I’m willing to pay considering the use I expect get out of it (150+ nights in it and counting). I also appreciate that down is very compressible and light – the Megalite is 1.5lbs, about half of what my previous synthetic bag was.

I’ve ended up with a down bag that I am very careful with. When I get in my tent, usually the sleeping bag stays in its waterproof sack until I’m out of any wet clothes.  If the inside of the tent was wet, I usually mop it up as best I can. I have to be careful in the night and morning of not brushing the sides of my tent. These all seem like reasonable sacrifices to my gram-counting heart.

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