Day 17 – Andover

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Nice trail

We woke up to more rain and it was coming down pretty hard all morning. We were convinced to bail a bit early into town as we slogged over a couple mountains and then very steeply down to the road. Megan fell a couple times and so did the other guys… By the time we all got down everyone was very muddy and wet.

Fortunately, the shuttle to town was waiting for us after our rough descent, so we were quickly into town, showered and off for a late lunch.

DBB
Atlantic Coal Porter (Atlantic Brewing, Bar Harbor, Maine)
While in Andover, Maine, we had the option of eating at 1 of 2 spots in “town” – the Andover General Store, or the Mills General Store, next door. Not much else to this town, period. Both places had 1-topping pizza on sale! We got a veggie pizza to go and were able to buy these beers in singles. Took it all back to our hostel (along with a green pepper I called “salad” from the 8-item “veggie section”) and had dinner on the swinging seats on the front porch of our hostel. Not my favourite Porter but hit the spot, cold, paired well with pizza, and gets a solid rating for the convenience of being sold in singles!

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Day 16

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We had a pretty smooth morning highlighted by meeting some new hikers – Dr. Banner and Rabbi. We hiked with them a bit, then met 3 more new hikers at lunch – Weird, Magic, and Web MD.  When we rolled up to the shelter for lunch they were just getting ready to start their day.  I guess we probably won’t see too much of them after the next couple days.

The late afternoon was a decent hike up part of Bemis Mountain, with nice views back the way we came and another beautiful sunny day. There’s talk of some sort of tropical storm rolling in over the next couple days, so hopefully we are in town by then!

We ended up all at the same shelter after 19.5 miles for us, along with our usual crew minus Fun Employed, who had to head into town for some reason…  Robin started a nice fire and everyone cooked and chatted for a good while. A couple northbounders showed up as well for a pretty full house.

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Day 15

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It rained over night but stopped just as we were getting up.  Good thing too, as we had a lot of mountain to climb and the opportunity for nice views!  First we dropped way down to a “ford” that we were able to stay dry by rock hopping.  Then the climbing started, first up Saddleback Junior, then the Horn, which we had great 360 views from in the sun.   One of our first real vistas since the first day of the hike.

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Find Ryley!

We then got to traverse a ridge to Saddleback Mountain, all above treeline,  ending with even better views.  We enjoyed the scenery on the way down until it was swallowed by the trees,  and a knee jarring descent into camp.  Once again shared with Robin and Funemployed, plus Vanilla Thunder and A-Town.  Vanilla is pretty creative with food – right now they have powdered peanut butter to add to Ramen,  plus parmesan.  They carry butter as well to add to everything (including coffee).  It’s always entertaining with this crew…

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Day 14

New, larger shoes and a much lighter tape job on my toes made a huge difference today.  Basically no pain left, fingers crossed!

We had breakfast and chatted with the hotel owner, Sue,  then she shuttled us up to the trail by 9:15.

3 mountains climbed, not much seen, but still a nice day of hiking, including a scramble up a ridge.  A bit of a short day but looking forward to more tomorrow.

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Day 13 – Stratton

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I ate a giant burger, with sausage patty, bacon, etc

Today was basically a day off, with a nice 5 mile walk to the highway, where we were quickly picked up by Boomerang, a southbounder who was just getting back on trail, but offered to take us into town first.  We picked up Robin enroute as he was walking and hitching (with Vanilla Thunder and Seth).

We got all our chores done and had a few good meals and snacks:

DBB 3 Smashed Blueberry, Shipyard Brewing Co. Signature Series (Portland, ME)
Hybrid between a Porter and a Scotch Ale. “Notes of coffee and chocolate accentuated with the aroma of blueberries”. Fruity, but not too sweet. Oh and did I mention 9% alcohol? “Smashed Blueberry pairs well with a pint of Ben and Jerry’s The Tonight Dough ice cream”.

Exciting times for my feet,  Megan convinced me to take all the tape off and soak them in soapy water,  then left the tape off for the day.  We shall see tomorrow.

We ended the night watching an acapella reality TV show to fall asleep to.  A good day off!

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Day 12 – Bigelows

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Last night we were visited by a bunny that was really interested in the dead leaves right beside our heads.  Kept us up a bit til we got a good look at it and realized it was harmless.

Big day in the Bigelows!  We started with some warm up climbs around Flagstaff Pond, then climbed 4 peaks in succession.  A tough hiking day, and unfortunately it was in the rain so we didn’t get to see anything for our efforts.  But the tops of the mountains were otherworldly in misty clouds and rain.  We didn’t linger and quickly dropped down to Horn Pond to sleep, with an early exit to town planned for tomorrow.

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Day 11

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Hillbilly Dan after dropping us off

We got up a bit early today, hiking before 7, in order to catch the “ferry” at 9, 6 miles down the trail.  It turns out that the ferry is just a guy named Hillbilly Dan and his canoe.  We were the first people there and he had us across the Kennebec River in no time.  This river is too big to ford and there isn’t a footbridge anywhere nearby, so the AT hires Dan to do the ferrying during hiking season, at this time of year that means from 9-11am

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We climbed beside a river and stopped to check out some cool falls, then continued on upstream til we got to Pierce Pond.  The Pond is dammed with a wooden dam, and we had to walk right along the edge of it. We had an early lunch at the next shelter, looking out over the pond, and ran into Dreamweaver and Funemployed, who just stopped in for a quick snack. 

After lunch we kept cruising on good trail through boggy country, and we decided we could make it a total of 20 miles to the next shelter. Almost immediately, the trail got muddy and slow again, so our last 2 hours were non-stop rock and root hopping.

We rolled into the shelter with Vanilla Thunder and his son Seth and were soon joined by Dreamweaver and FE,  along with Robin, another guy we’ve seen a few times now, going back to Shaw’s in Monson.  Vanilla Thunder made a roaring fire and everyone dried out damp things while chatting.  A nice relaxing evening before we turned in rather early.

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Day 10

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On top of Moxie Bald

We climbed a pretty real mountain this morning, Moxie Bald. Once we were in top we had a long break just watching the forested hills around us.  No bugs, nice temperature, very unusual for the AT so far 🙂

Next up was a long approach to another climb, Pleasant Pond Mountain. The bugs were out in force and tons of blow downs have us some troubles but we topped out in late afternoon and were quickly chased back down the other side by swarms of black flies.

At the bottom, Megan took a dip in Pleasant Pond, then we called an early day since we have to catch a ferry across the Kennebec River first thing tomorrow.

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Day 9

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Quiet Earp and others jamming

We decided to head out in the morning after doing some grocery shopping, and listening to one last jam session by all the musically talented hikers.

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Test crossing a river

The trail was smooth for about 12 miles, then we had two deep river fords, one well over my waist and the second running very fast.  So thoroughly soaked,  we soldiered on through some very wet trail until we arrived at a shelter.  Having seen no one on the trail all day, we found probably 15 people already set up and had to squeeze or tent into an awkward spot… One with a perfect view of the lake.  We watched the sunset over it while eating dinner  then collapsed into our tent, put to sleep by loon calls

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Day 8 – Into Monson

We woke up early with town on the mind, 10 miles away.  It took all morning, and I was really running out of gas, but we got out after 5 hours of hiking. The highlight was right at the end, where we saw a brand new looking bridge crossing a pond outlet, and it was totally busted up.  Probably the only bridge in the 100 Mile Wilderness and it doesn’t work.

We got picked up by Poet from Shaw’s Hostel as we were trying to hitch into town to go there.  He was coming out to drop off other hikers so it just worked out. We arrived in to a ton of hikers that we hadn’t seen before, including quite a few Northbounders. Down to business after that, food, laundry, ordering gear to replace what wasn’t working, etc.  Then more food, although the hiker hunger hasn’t arrived in full force yet.  Quiet Earp showed up and it turns out him and another hiker are Frisbee players, so we found one and tossed it around.

The owners of Shaw’s are amazing characters, Poet and Hippie Chik,  they bought the hostel 6 weeks ago and opened for business within a few weeks.  They hiked the AT in 2008 and are just bursting with energy, doing everything needed to keep ~20 hikers happy (with great success).  In spite of how busy they were, Poet still took the time to talk gear with us, show us around his gear shop, and toss the Frisbee with us.  Did I mention they have a toddler as well? Puts my life in perspective 🙂

Megan checking in here. I’ve almost caught up on sleep and my feet are looking better than Ryley’s so there are some wins! Mt Katahdin was a tough climb – it rocked my quads and my knees. My quads recovered after ~3 days, my knees it seems are just sore anytime we come down anything, ever. My back likes hiking better than standing on the pool deck and sitting at a desk, so has been pretty good actually, just a bit sore when dragging myself up boulders or over blow downs sometimes and after a few stiff sleeps (like the plane). There are a LOT of ups and downs on the AT so lots of sore knees and slow descents to look forward to. Did you know a “fun fact” about the AT is that it’s equivalent to hiking Mt Everest 16 times?? NOT A FUN FACT.
The 100 Mile Wilderness was definitely rough – roots, rocks, wet and muddy, lots of route finding and puddle jumping, which isn’t very fast going. But physically, it hasn’t been more challenging than some of the hikes we’ve done at home, in my opinion. On the other hand, I have to say the AT is mentally kicking my butt so far. I’m used to more open spaces, big mountain hiking, and my obvious favourite, snow. Not so out here, it is a lot of green and a lot of forest. I’m sure many of you have read Bill Bryson’s “A Walk in the Woods”. You know what that book isn’t called? “A Walk in the Woods and the Mountains with Many Grand Picturesque Snowy Landscapes”. I think I by should’ve read it again before starting the hike… Woods on woods on woods. And lots of staring 2 feet in front of your feet so you don’t trip on a root and do a faceplate into a rock puddle.
Lots of time for thinking out here and one of the things I’ve come up with is a list of similarities between distance hiking and tree planting – you’ll have to stay tuned for that exciting entry!

More importantly, I’m taking a page out of Davey’s book and have decided to make a concerted effort to test the local craft beer on the East Coast. This will be called Davey’s Beer Blog (DBB) and will hopefully happen on every day off, for the sake of my sanity and Ryley’s. 🙂 Since I’m not a beer connoisseur in any way, I’m going to make up random scales and reasons for the beer being good or bad. Very unscientific!

DBB 1
Sierra Nevada Pale Ale (Chico, CA)
NOT local, but handed to me as I walked in the door of our first hostel after 115 miles of hiking, cold out of the fridge. On the house. Light-medium, a bit too hoppy for my taste. Hit the spot.

DBB 2 (same evening with dinner)
Blue Fin Stout, Shipyard Brewing Co (Portland, Maine)
Stouty and tasty! Dark and slightly bitter. Delicious.

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